That reel will work nicely, but I recommend going with a 2500 BG MQ because you’ll save some money without losing much at all in terms of performance… I’d use the 3000 Saltest on a Medium Heavy power rod vs. a medium power rod like the Slot Machine.

I was using the TFO Pro Medium powered 7’6″ rod for the balcony snook catch: https://fishstrong.com/products/tfo-pro-professional-spinning-rods?variant=40649101967534

And during the slow-mo footage, I was using an 8′ G. Loomis E6x to show how rods flex and release.

Yes, the recommendation was supposed to specify inches… sorry about that.

Are you meaning “20-30” inches? I think I misread it and I was trying to imagine 20-30 feet of leader. Now it makes more sense. Not trying to correct you or anything, just trying to stop other literal dummies like myself to avoid confusion. Thanks for the setup tip, Rob.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TOC-Wtdt5ok

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3xagHWTyAq

I surf fish 99.9% of the time, and have done so for over 60 years. Surf rods of goodly lengths (10-15′) require a two handed technique for maximum distance. One hand up and typically fingering the mono shocker line (spinner) or thumb on the spool (revolver) and t’other hand on the butt = push (reel hand) and pull (butt hand). A good fishing cast is the Hatteras, either OTG (off the ground) or aerialized (pendulum). For weight ‘n’ bait, a clip down or over/under rig will help maximize the distance and eliminate “helicoperting” a spinning sinker and baited hook.

I spool braid on spinners and add about 20′ to 30′ of mono with an FG knot. That mono is a “shock leader” that’s typically twice the test strength of the braid. For 15# braid the shocker is 30# mono. For 30# braid a 50-60# mono shocker, for any heavier braid the shocker is always 80# mono. A super small Spro swivel (#5 125lb, or lots smaller) is tied to the end of the shocker with an improved clinch knot. The #5 will easily glide through a 10 ring rod tip top when it’s time to wind back on the spool when fishing is over, but is always kept forward of the rod’s tip top for casting. A payload drop off the rod tip of half to three quarter of the rod length will increase casting distance if a proper casting technique is employed and well executed. Excess shocker mono is wound on the spool and a lure rig or bait rig is clipped onto the shocker’s swivel. Casting for distance requires a technique that will suit the tackle – the rod, reel, line, and payload weight and physical size. For lures, they are open loop knotted with a floro or mono bite leader that’s clipped to the shocker swivel. For weight ‘n’ bait, the leader type and strength depends on the targeted fish, where sharking will require a hefty mono trace to a wire bite leader.

The rod tip will damage your leader knot and/or your swivel will damage your rod tip if you reel too far. The long leader should help you load the rod on the backswing so you shouldn’t need much oomph to get your bait out there.